Subwoofer

General Information

[Subwoofer system components subwoofer housing overhead console/volume slider amplifier wiring
1986-88 AMPLIFIER, low freq audio (UQ6)   16040752  $41.15
1986-88 GASKET, speaker, subwoofer        16042197   $1.15
1986-88 GRILLE, subwoofer                 16042199   $3.95
1986-88 HOUSING, subwoofer                16029862 $117.00
1986-88 SPEAKER, subwoofer                16041072  $27.50
1986-88 HARNESS, amp wiring               12046518  $62.25
1986-88 HARNESS, reading lamp & subwoofer 20521747    N.L.
LAMP, reading & dome, w/UQ6   
  1986-88  DK gray                        20636322  $62.50
  1986-87  DK Saddle                      20636323  $62.50
  1988     Med Beechwood                  10076175  $62.50

From: Scott Backer

Installation and Removal

Installation - all models

These instructions are for installing a factory Fiero subwoofer onto any Fiero, regardless of the year, or option package. This installation method duplicates the factory installation, including the routing of the wiring harness.

You can SHORTCUT this procedure by skipping past the removal of the main instrument pod and main dash board. All the rest of this procedure is the same. The only difference between the two installations is that the SHORTCUT will have the wires routed across the steering column by fishing them between instrumentation frame work, rather than sharing the wire harness hold-down clips in that area.

Allow a day for this task, or 3 to 5 hours if you use the SHORTCUT method. Tools required are simple screw drivers, socket wrenches, pliers, putty knife, and a T15 and T45 torx driver. Installation is based upon a complete car with the interior and windshield in place. This is a one man/woman job, as there is no need for assistance.

Glancing at this article may scare you based on it's length. But it is not hard to do for someone with minimal automotive "Hands On" experience. The article is just Very descriptive.

Additional Recommended Upgrading

This job provides a good opportunity to upgrade the original 4x10 10 ohm dash board speakers along with the sail panel speakers (if equipped), with good quality 2 or 3-way, 4 ohm speakers. I also recommend installing "Good Grade" carpet padding as a speaker enclosure behind the front speakers to enhance their sound quality, as well as muffle the subwoofer's air burst noise. Get these items prior to starting the project.

Subwoofer Components

Old Components That Will "No Longer" Be Needed

The Procedure

The very first thing to do is...

Disconnect the battery, because you will be handling a number of electrical connections, some of which will have power. Remember that all connectors have locking features to prevent unwarranted removal, so do not force a disconnect. Lift or squeeze the locking taps, for proper disconnect. Always pull on the connectors, and not their wires. Study each connector carefully.

Main Instrument Pod Removal (If Using The "Complete" Method Only)
Center Console Removal (From The Shifter Forward)
Main Dash Board Removal (If Using The "Complete" Method Only)
Time For Detailing

Take this opportunity to clean up all the interior components of the car. A smoker's car could certainly use a good cleaning. The results will make the interior look almost new.

Headliner's Courtesy Light, Sail Panel, And Associated Wire Harness Removal
Installing The New Wire Harness

Position the new harness behind the radio cavity. The black boxed connector plugs into the old radio connector, and then gets screwed to the car frame by the provided plastic flap with hole. A predrilled hole in the car frame is also provided. The duplicate connector will plug into the radio latter. The smaller multi-pin connector must be worked behind and down to the passenger floor. The blue and black 2-wire goes to the subwoofer above the passenger's feet. A plastic tab in the heater core housing is for the clip in that harness. The yellow and white wire pair gets placed across the steering column (sharing the wire clips) and then up the windshield along with the orange and white wire pair to the courtesy light. The orange and white wire connector goes to the power distribution block as previously discussed. Remember all the parts you removed earlier must be reinstalled, so make sure that the harness will not get pinched or twisted during final assembly.

Installing The Subwoofer Enclosure

The subwoofer enclosure is mounted just above the passenger's right foot vinyl rest. Position the subwoofer such that it's mounting brackets align with the dash and chime unit brackets. The speaker faces down, and the vent tube is up and to the driver. The chime and dash brackets have predrilled holes dedicated for the screws of the subwoofer. Complete the wire harness connection.

If you are following the SHORTCUT method with the dash and main instrument pod in place, working the subwoofer into position is much easier with the passenger side dash speaker removed. This will allow you to get your hand in there to help position the housing properly. See dashboard removal section on how to remove this speaker.

Installing The Amplifier

Remove the carpet clips on the passenger side console, and pull the carpet back. Identify and remove the 4 black retainer buttons for the large black plastic side cavity. It measures roughly 2 feet long by 10 inches high by 2 inches thick. It has a number of bends in the top to follow the center console's shape. Pull this piece out and mount the amplifier in it with a 7mm screw. Reposition it back, and attach the small multi-pin connector to it. Keep in mind that the harness must not get pinched or twisted, but rather lay nicely from the radio to the black plastic side cavity, with no interference to the missing console pieces yet to be installed. Reassemble this cavity and carpet to the car.

Installing The Courtesy Unit, And Then Test The Subwoofer

Plug the courtesy unit with the subwoofer slide control, into the 4-pin connector, and mount to the roof. Double check all subwoofer connections, and then plug in the radio, and antenna, along with the two dash speakers. Again, make sure all cables are laid and held down properly. With all other instruments and dash still removed, make sure their connectors are not touching metal. Then connect the car battery and power up the radio by turning the ignition key to accessory. Test the functionality of the subwoofer. Assuming you did everything right and you have a good subwoofer unit, it should work.

Disconnect the car battery once again, and then reinstall the balance of components in the reverse order of disassembly, making sure that all wires are secured the way the factory did it, and watch out for wire pinching and twisting. Don't forget the upgraded speakers and carpet padding too.

From: Ron Dittmer


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